May 31st 2012 - Best Tanks from Around the World
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1747132
A great thread for those looking for inspiration. These are some of the most celebrated home reefs in existence. Here are a few previews:
JWRE:
[img]http://i134.photobucket.com/albums/q90/JWRE/IMG_4409.jpg[/img]
sunnyx:
[img]http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p157/SunnyX_photo/New%20100gl%20Rimless%20Reef/DSC_0231-1.jpg[/img]
Unknown tank from Brazil:
[img]http://i50.tinypic.com/and01x.jpg[/img]
Thursday, 31 May 2012
Tuesday, 29 May 2012
Coral Reef Adventure (2003)
Coral Reef Adventure (2003)
Embarking on a 10-month expedition through the islands of the South Pacific, husband and wife underwater photography-duo Michele and Howard Hall explore the declining reefs and failing health of the world's oceans. From Australia's Great Barrier Reef, to a friend's coral reef-sustained village in Fiji, the diving expeditions show a range of coral reefs, from flourishing ones filled with unusual and exotic inhabitants, to vast stretches of bleached coral decline which prompted the Hall's activism. Along their journey, scientists working to understand and save the reefs meet with the Hall's.
Great images. Lots of basic but still interesting information. Liam Neeson does a great job as narrator. 4/5
Aliens of the Deep (2005)
Aliens of the Deep (2005)
"James Cameron journeys to some of the Earth's deepest, most extreme and unknown environments in search of the strange and alien creatures that live there. Joining him is a team of young NASA scientists and marine biologists who consider how these life forms represent life we may one day find in outer space not only on distant planets orbiting distant stars, but also within our own solar system. Aliens of the Deep is the result of expeditions to several hydrothermal vent sites in the Atlantic and the Pacific. These are violent volcanic regions where new planet is literally being born and where the interaction between ocean and molten rock creates plumes of super-heated, chemically-charged water that serve as oases for animals unlike anything ever discovered. Six-foot tall worms with blood-red plumes and no stomach, blind white crabs, and a biomass of shrimp capable of "seeing" heat all compete to find just the right location in the flow of the super-heated..."
Worth watching, but too "campy" and not enough scientific information. Too oriented on the crew. Lots of wasted potential considering the budget was probably considerable and they had great tools. 2.5/5
Sunday, 27 May 2012
An Introduction Into Saltwater Aquariums: Part 2 (Planning)
An Introduction Into Saltwater Aquariums
Part 2 - Planning Your Saltwater Aquarium
Left: A simple FOWLR tank, full of interesting Marine animals. This simple set up is an exciting and easy type of tank, perfect for any Saltwater hobby noobies.
Video Credit: TheCanuck, via MonsterFishKeepers
2.0 Planning your Saltwater Aquarium
Keeping Saltwater fish, or any complex animals for that matter, should not be a responsibility that one accepts on a whim or without planning and research. the are endless possibilities and configurations when setting up your first tank, and it's best to enter knowing exactly what you want, and what to avoid. This article is a brief, highly-generalized overview of the first and most important decisions hobbyist should make before driving out to pick out fish.First, knowing what exactly you'd like to keep is always important. For example, someone who's goal it is to keep advanced corals will have very different plans than someone hoping to set up a tank.
To help you get past that first planning obstacle, I will provide a short overview of the three most common set ups seen in the hobby. Each of these setups have within them an entire spectrum of difficulty, which I will also try to address.
2.1 The Fish-Only-With-Live-Rock Tank (FOWLR)
Introduction
The FOWLR tank is a tank which has similar filtration, lighting and heating to a regular freshwater tank, but contains saltwater organisms and Live Rock.
Live Rock
Live Rock is a basic (high-PH) rock which is built from layers and layers of dead corals. the highest quality of rock is cured, premium rock taken from the ocean, and containing live bacteria, mollusks, algae and other critters. Often this rock will be one of the major purchases for any saltwater tank, as it usually ranges anywhere from 4-10 dollars per pound, depending on the source. There are several qualities of Live Rock, but for a beginner, the most important piece of information is that the rock is cured. Cured rock will not smell of sulfur and rotting plants and animals. Healthy, cured Live Rock will smell like a fresh sea. Premium rock will likely also be encrusted with many algaes, such as corraline algae, which is a beautiful beneficial purple algae which uses calcium to form. If the cost of premium cured Live Rock exceeds your budget (larger tanks), you can use base rock in conjunction with Live Rock, which will slowly be seeded. Often indistinguishable to premium Live Rock within a year (depending on tank conditions).
 |
| Dead or Base Rock. A good choice for large tanks. Will be seeded by the Live Rock you place in the tank with it. Photo Credit: MacroRocks.com, an excellent source for base rock. |
 |
| Premium Live Rock. Make sure the rock is cured with a simple smell test. Uncured rock can be disgusting and can prolong your cycle for months. Photo Credit: CarolinaLiveRock.com, a well respected dealer with great prices for American customers. |
Benefits of a FOWLR System
One of the reasons a FOWLR tank is a superior choice for beginners, is simply explained by Robert Fenner (2008), "Fishes, as a rule, are more forgiving than non-fish livestock". Fishes are often much less effected (check each species) by things such a photoperiod, Nitrates, algae or cyanobacteria outbreaks, or small salinity shifts.
FOWLR tanks also provide the hobbyist with a greater variety of options of fish. Many fish you see at the local petshop are likely not safe for reef, especially some of the predatory fish, the Angels and Butterflies. Here are some examples of fish which can only be kept in tanks without corals or motile invertabrates:
 |
| Queen Angelfish. The large Angelfish found in marine environments will often pick at coral. Photo Credit: Chris Huss, via National Geographic |
 |
| Copperband Butterflyfish. Great for FOWLR tanks, but will peck corals. Photo Credit: Luc Viatour, via Wikipedia |
 |
| Snowflake Eel. Common in FOWLR tanks. Safe for coral, but will eat shrimp or snails, or even small fish. Photo Credit: atv023, via TheReefTank.com |
 |
| Harlequin Tuskfish will eat motile invertabrates. Photo Credit: Terry Siegel, via AdvancedAquarist.com |
Some other benefits of a FOWLR tank include the possibility of a less expensive skimmer (although I recommend purchasing a skimmer that exceeds your needs - especially if you go with a heavy predator tank rather than a simple Clown/Community tank) and less expensive lighting. There are also some non-photosynthetic corals that you may keep in a FOWLR tank under bland lighting if there are no corallivores present. One popular species is the Sun Coral. The corals do, however, require clean water and in some cases, daily feeding. If you are interested in Sun Corals, I recommend you visit Melev's Reef page for more info and feeding instructions.
 |
| Sun Coral feeding on mysis shrimp. Photo Credit: Melev's Reef. |
Equipment in a FOWLR System
- Basic Lighting - 10,000k or 18,000k mixed with Actinic bulb recommended for colours.
- Heater + Thermometer
- Basic synthetic salt, such as Instant Ocean.
- Canister or Sump w Bioball filtration.
- Ammonia, Nitrites, Nitrate, Alkalinity, pH test kits.
- Hydrometer
- 10x+ turnover via powerheads, filter returns and sump return
- Good Skimmer ($150-$300 range)
Hardscape
- 1-1.5lbs of Live Rock/Gallon
- Coarse aragonite or crushed coral for easy cleaning
Approximate Budget for a 75g FOWLR Tank
- $1,500 for low end tank w/o skimmer.
- $2,500 for high end tank w/skimmer, sump, upgraded lighting and strong flow
2.2 The Soft Coral Tank
Introduction
As we saw in Part 1 of this series, "Myths in the Saltwater Hobby", not all corals are difficult to keep. In fact, there is a rather large selection of beautiful soft coral readily available in the hobby which are easier to keep than some freshwater plants. These corals are often inexpensive, hardy, and aquacultured locally, which means that you are not harvesting from the ocean.
Benefits of a Soft Coral Tank
A soft coral tank is, in almost every case, the gateway into the more advanced sessile invertabrates in the hobby. Soft coral tanks provide hobbyists with an introduction into coral tank husbandry, in a low-pressure setting, where a mistake likely won't mean disaster. LPS (Large Polyp Stony) corals and other "softies" are often very undemanding and hardy, although there are some exceptions. We will dive deeper into what corals are and are not suitable for a beginner in a later article of this collection. For now, here are some of the most common and easy to keep soft corals:
 |
| Button Polyp Corals. Photo Credit: jessp, via ReefCentral.com |
 |
| Xenia Corals. Photo Credit: Haplochromis, via Wikipedia |
 |
| Green Star Polyp Coral. Photo Credit: Unknown |
Equipment in a Soft Coral System
- High Output Lighting, such as T5HO, VHO T8s, Metal Halide or LED.
- Basic synthetic salt.
- Canister or (recommended) sump system. Refugium recommmened.
- Very good skimmer ($200-$400)
- Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, Alkalinity, pH, Calcium and Magnesium test kits. Titration/Pro series recommended.
- Hydrometer or refractometer.
- Strong flow of 10-15x+ tank turnover from powerheads, filters and sump returns.
- 1-2lbs of Live Rock/Gallon
- 1lb of coarse or medium-fine aragonite or crushed coral. Perhaps a deep sand bed (DSB) in tank or a RDSB (Remote DSB) in sump for added filtration and food creation.
Approximate Budget for a 75g Soft Coral Tank
- $2,000 w/o skimmer, w/ low end lighting.
- $3,000 w/ powerful skimmer and strong lighting for more advanced corals.
2.3 The Reef Tank
 |
| Regal Angelfish swims happily through an SPS coral garden. Photo Credit: T35l.com |
Introduction
The reef tank both a work of art and a model of scientific achievement. The culmination of years of experience with simpler systems, a healthy budget, a boatload of patience and hours of research are the means for these beautiful slices of ocean. I do not recommend a new hobbyist dive into this type of tank. For this reason, I will try to stay brief in it's description and explanation. For those truly looking to dive deep into this section of the hobby, please only do so after you've mastered LPS husbandry. Research every aspect of the tank to save heartache and money in the long run. I recommend Robert Fenner's book The Conscientious Marine Aquarist (2008) or the great library of information found in the articles at Reefkeeping Magazine's website.
For the purpose of this article, "reef tank" refers to tanks capable of housing and growing SPS (Small Polyp Stony) corals.
Benefits of keeping a Reef Tank
An SPS dominated tank truly is a window in some of the great reefs of the world, like the Great Barrier Reef. SPS corals and LPS corals found in reef tanks are often gorgeous, thanks to the high activity of plankton found within the tissue of the coral, which grows because of the strong lighting on the tank. Successfully running a tank full of SPS frags and watching them grow is one of the most rewarding experiences in the entire aquarium hobby. Your advanced equipment allows you to keep just about any sessile invertabrate happy and colourful.
An excellent example of the beauty of an SPS tank is Iwan Lasser's SPS dominated reef below. I recommend everyone clicks the link below to see what is truly possible when a dedicated and passionate hobbyist hones his/her skills and builds something spectacular.
 |
| SPS dominated tank. Photo Credit: Iwan Lasser, via ReefCentral.com |
Equipment in a Reef Tank
- Very high output lighting, such as Metal Halides or LEDs.
- Sump with integrated refugium, RDSB, extra Live Rock, macroalgae farm, ATS (Algae Turf Scrubber, or Mangroves.
- R/O unit.
- High grade skimmer ($300-1000+)
- Refractometer
- Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, pH, Alkalinity, TDS, Calcium, Magnesium, Phosphate, Strontium test kits (titration or pro series) or recommended electronic monitors.
- 20x+ tank turnover.
- Calcium Reactor
- Other recommended: Redox monitor, automatic dosing pump, auto top off unit, ozonizer.
Thank you for reading this article, I hope you have gained some useful information. Stay tuned for Part 3: Livestock.
Fenner, Robert M., (2008). The Concientus Marine Aquarist. New Jersey: T.F.H Publications, Inc.
Photo References
http://carolinaliverock.com/buy-live-rock/live-rock/
http://www.marcorocks.com/25poundboxkeylargorockprecuredandfreeshippinginthecontinentalus.aspx
http://www.monsterfishkeepers.com/forums/showthread.php?449900-The-Canuck-s-Update
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Chelmon_rostratus_Luc_Viatour.jpg
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2003/3/fish
http://www.melevsreef.com/suncoral.html
http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=69092&d=1244330230
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1021526
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Xenia_coral.jpg
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=11235791
http://www.t35l.com/
Saturday, 26 May 2012
An Introduction Into Saltwater Aquariums: Part 1 (Myths)
Welcome to "An Introduction Into Saltwater Aquariums: 1.0 (Myths). This is the first part of a small collection of informational guides aimed at helping those new to the saltwater hobby. The purpose of these articles is to help new members find the information they need - all of the information here within is simply an aggregate collection collected from the true scientists and pioneers of the hobby.
An Introduction Into Saltwater Aquariums
Part 1 - Myths
The difficulty of keeping corals is one of the many muths facing hobbyists; the below is a Xenia coral, one of the most robust and easy to keep corals which are widely available in the hobby.
Photo Credit: Haplochromis, via Wikipedia
1.0 Myths Surrounding the Saltwater Hobby
There are a number of saltwater hobby myths which I have seen repeated and believed for the entire duration of my 10 year life in this aquarium hobby. Many of these myths have the unfortunate effect of stalling freshwater hobbyists in their aspirations to jump into the marine side of the hobby. Below we will attempt to deconstruct some of these myths and hopefully open the door for those out there sitting on the fence. We'll start off with a doozy....
Saltwater aquariums are really hard to keep. I suppose I can understand this justification from your average Guppy breeder or Better keeper. However, this idea is even believed by some of the more hardcore hobbyist. Working in a retail setting, once was discussing the beauty of Triggerfish with a local Discus breeder. This customer was a regular, and often purchased plants fertilizers and some of the more complex tests and components of a high-end planted tank. The breeder said to me that he'd always wanted a Triggerfish, but that saltwater just seemed like it would be too big of a jump, or too difficult. I was astounded. The basic failure in this logic is that a high-end planted tank or Discus breeding are actually more difficult then a "Fish Only With Live Rock (FOWLR)" or Fish and Soft Coral" tank.
The main principles are the same: stable parameters (just different ranges), clean water (biological filtration but with the addition of some other equipment) and adequate supplementation and lighting for the organisms you want to keep. FOWLR and Soft Coral tanks really only have 1 considerably different variable, which is that in a saltwater tank, you must take salinity into account. In a small system (below 29g) this can be challenging at first, but in larger systems, the dillution of toxins and volume of water will help keep your system stable. Here is a little infographic I came up to hopefully help push my point across:
This is of course a very, very rough depiction and I'm sure many peoiple will find faults, but the main point is that if you can handle some of the less robust freshwater fish (such as Serrasalamus, Neons, Ram cichlids) and keep them healthy for long periods of time, there is no reason you couldn't handle a very basic marine system. If you are one of the members on this board who has dabbled in plants, chances are, you already possess the passion and drive to conquer a low-end LPS (soft coral) tank, and without question could handle a basic FOWLR system.
Saltwater tank chemistry is very complicated. The processes which occur in a marine tank may be complex, but this does not mean they have to be complicated. Sure, a full blown reef, with calcium dosing, Redox potential monitoring and ozonizing may be complicated - but this is an evolution in knowledge. To get into the hobby, you only need to know the basics - how to research the care of a certain species, how to test for the nitrifying components (Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate) and how to recognize poor health. Mixing saltwater is not the wizardry some make it out to be, at least not for a basic marine system.
Keeping a stable salinity, within .002 sg on a hydrometer, is one of the easiest ways to help keep your fish healthy. Measuring for salinity is as easy as buying a hydrometer, like the one below, and dipping it into the SW tank until it's filled to the designated line. The swing arm will point towards your current salinity. To adjust salinity, add or use less salt when mixing your saltwater and bring the fresh water change water to the higher salinity, and repeat for future water changes. This will slowly raise the salinity. Using a small amount of SW in your top off water will also help you slowly raise the salinity level.
Going with a larger aquarium will make these abiotic tank parameters much easier to control...which brings us to the next point:
It will be less expensive if I start with a smaller tank. I can see why common sense might dictate this: afterall, smaller tanks need smaller waterchanges, smaller lights, less live rock and a small protein skimmer. In fact, I will go so far as to say that long term, it may be less expensive. However, small tanks are difficult to keep stable, and often crash, causing huge amounts of money loss. Not to mention, any serious marine tank hobbyist will have an auto top off unit installed on any tank below 20 gallons. In terms of money spent to money lost ratio, you will make much better use of your hard earned moola by investing in a larger tank.
Corals are extremely difficult to keep. See the image from the first point. Many saltwater corals which are often found in pet shops (Zooanthids, Mushrooms, Xenia) are incredibly hardy and are much easier to keep than some of the more advanced plants found in freshwater tanks. There are corals for every level of hobbyist who is willing to practice good tank husbandry and is also willing to do a little research.
Saltwater fish and coral collection are ruining our coral reefs. This is where you, the customer, is able to vote on how this hobby evolves over the next decade. While there are definitely some unfortunate incidents involving over-collection or poor collection techniques, collectors are now using much more humane ways (aka net and bag) to collect fish from the sea. With a bit of knowledge, we can all make the right choice to only buy sustainable wild caught fish and aquacultured fish and coral, and thus protect fish like the Moorish Idol from being brought into pet stores where they will almost certainly slowly die. Doing research and only choosing fish that have good track records in captivity encourages distributors to only purchase the most sustainable species and the tank bred fish, such as the many species of aquacultered Clownfish. Corals are often sold as frags from main colonies, which allows our wild reefs to remain untouched by the hobby.
...stay tuned for Part 1.2 - Planning your 1st Saltwater Aquarium
References
Fenner, Robert M., (2008). The Concientus Marine Aquarist. New Jersey: T.F.H Publications, Inc.
Haplochromis. (2007), Xenia.Retrieved from:
http://en.wikipedia....i/Xenia_(genus)
An Introduction Into Saltwater Aquariums
Part 1 - Myths
The difficulty of keeping corals is one of the many muths facing hobbyists; the below is a Xenia coral, one of the most robust and easy to keep corals which are widely available in the hobby.
Photo Credit: Haplochromis, via Wikipedia
1.0 Myths Surrounding the Saltwater Hobby
There are a number of saltwater hobby myths which I have seen repeated and believed for the entire duration of my 10 year life in this aquarium hobby. Many of these myths have the unfortunate effect of stalling freshwater hobbyists in their aspirations to jump into the marine side of the hobby. Below we will attempt to deconstruct some of these myths and hopefully open the door for those out there sitting on the fence. We'll start off with a doozy....
Saltwater aquariums are really hard to keep. I suppose I can understand this justification from your average Guppy breeder or Better keeper. However, this idea is even believed by some of the more hardcore hobbyist. Working in a retail setting, once was discussing the beauty of Triggerfish with a local Discus breeder. This customer was a regular, and often purchased plants fertilizers and some of the more complex tests and components of a high-end planted tank. The breeder said to me that he'd always wanted a Triggerfish, but that saltwater just seemed like it would be too big of a jump, or too difficult. I was astounded. The basic failure in this logic is that a high-end planted tank or Discus breeding are actually more difficult then a "Fish Only With Live Rock (FOWLR)" or Fish and Soft Coral" tank.
The main principles are the same: stable parameters (just different ranges), clean water (biological filtration but with the addition of some other equipment) and adequate supplementation and lighting for the organisms you want to keep. FOWLR and Soft Coral tanks really only have 1 considerably different variable, which is that in a saltwater tank, you must take salinity into account. In a small system (below 29g) this can be challenging at first, but in larger systems, the dillution of toxins and volume of water will help keep your system stable. Here is a little infographic I came up to hopefully help push my point across:
This is of course a very, very rough depiction and I'm sure many peoiple will find faults, but the main point is that if you can handle some of the less robust freshwater fish (such as Serrasalamus, Neons, Ram cichlids) and keep them healthy for long periods of time, there is no reason you couldn't handle a very basic marine system. If you are one of the members on this board who has dabbled in plants, chances are, you already possess the passion and drive to conquer a low-end LPS (soft coral) tank, and without question could handle a basic FOWLR system.
Saltwater tank chemistry is very complicated. The processes which occur in a marine tank may be complex, but this does not mean they have to be complicated. Sure, a full blown reef, with calcium dosing, Redox potential monitoring and ozonizing may be complicated - but this is an evolution in knowledge. To get into the hobby, you only need to know the basics - how to research the care of a certain species, how to test for the nitrifying components (Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrate) and how to recognize poor health. Mixing saltwater is not the wizardry some make it out to be, at least not for a basic marine system.
Keeping a stable salinity, within .002 sg on a hydrometer, is one of the easiest ways to help keep your fish healthy. Measuring for salinity is as easy as buying a hydrometer, like the one below, and dipping it into the SW tank until it's filled to the designated line. The swing arm will point towards your current salinity. To adjust salinity, add or use less salt when mixing your saltwater and bring the fresh water change water to the higher salinity, and repeat for future water changes. This will slowly raise the salinity. Using a small amount of SW in your top off water will also help you slowly raise the salinity level.
Going with a larger aquarium will make these abiotic tank parameters much easier to control...which brings us to the next point:
It will be less expensive if I start with a smaller tank. I can see why common sense might dictate this: afterall, smaller tanks need smaller waterchanges, smaller lights, less live rock and a small protein skimmer. In fact, I will go so far as to say that long term, it may be less expensive. However, small tanks are difficult to keep stable, and often crash, causing huge amounts of money loss. Not to mention, any serious marine tank hobbyist will have an auto top off unit installed on any tank below 20 gallons. In terms of money spent to money lost ratio, you will make much better use of your hard earned moola by investing in a larger tank.
Corals are extremely difficult to keep. See the image from the first point. Many saltwater corals which are often found in pet shops (Zooanthids, Mushrooms, Xenia) are incredibly hardy and are much easier to keep than some of the more advanced plants found in freshwater tanks. There are corals for every level of hobbyist who is willing to practice good tank husbandry and is also willing to do a little research.
Saltwater fish and coral collection are ruining our coral reefs. This is where you, the customer, is able to vote on how this hobby evolves over the next decade. While there are definitely some unfortunate incidents involving over-collection or poor collection techniques, collectors are now using much more humane ways (aka net and bag) to collect fish from the sea. With a bit of knowledge, we can all make the right choice to only buy sustainable wild caught fish and aquacultured fish and coral, and thus protect fish like the Moorish Idol from being brought into pet stores where they will almost certainly slowly die. Doing research and only choosing fish that have good track records in captivity encourages distributors to only purchase the most sustainable species and the tank bred fish, such as the many species of aquacultered Clownfish. Corals are often sold as frags from main colonies, which allows our wild reefs to remain untouched by the hobby.
...stay tuned for Part 1.2 - Planning your 1st Saltwater Aquarium
References
Fenner, Robert M., (2008). The Concientus Marine Aquarist. New Jersey: T.F.H Publications, Inc.
Haplochromis. (2007), Xenia.Retrieved from:
http://en.wikipedia....i/Xenia_(genus)
Friday, 25 May 2012
Freshwater Ich
Freshwater Ich
(Ichthyophthirius multifilis)
Photo Credit: Thomas Kaczmarczyk
Introduction
Freshwater Ich, or simply Ich from this point on in this article, is a ciliate protozoan parasite that is clearly visable to the naked eye. This parasite is very common in all freshwater tanks, as is the saltwater version (Crytocaryon irritans) in that respective environment.
Cause
Ich is most common in tanks which are unstable in some way, or in new specimens which have just gone through a stressful event like shipping or changing tanks. The actual presence of nitrogen and ammonia in themselves do not cause Ich, however, the presence of these in the aquarium lessens the ability of the fish to fight of protozoan outbreaks such as Ich. Abiotic factors such as temperature change and predator-prey interactions or fighting are also cited as stresses which make fish much more susceptible to the disease (Wikipedia, 2012).
*In the context of Piranha keeping, please not that last sentence. Adding feeder fish, which are constantly being chased and stressed, creates ideal conditions for parasites to take hold and reproduce. Even though a healthy Piranha will not succumb to these parasites, they will proliferate under these conditions, and the rotting organic compounds left in the water can causes stress to the Piranha. Always thoroughly clean up your tank after feeding live, and only feed live when necessary.*
Symptoms
Unless you have time, and a powerful microscope, only the whitish nodules on the fishes body will be visible. This, however, is only one part of the Ich life cycle, and this stage is indeed untreatable.
Some common symptoms fish with Ich tend to exhibit are:
Photo Credit: United States Fish and Wildlife Service, La Crosse Fish Health Center (2007).
Treatment
General: Treatment of Ich is not an overly difficult process, but one should study each of the methods listed and choose which one of these best suits the aquarium based on the species, the seriousness of the outbreak and the materials on hand.
Many of the medications listed are harsh, and some may use up oxygen in the tank. It is highly recommended to keep a very close watch on water parameters during treatment, and to overaerate the tank being treated. Remove activated carbon when using chemical intervention.
The below dosages are based are the raw medication. Always check the label on the bottle first to guarantee proper dosage.
Below is a format outline guide for the medications list.
Medicinal: Name
Medicinal: Copper
Medicinal: Malachite Green and Formalin
Medicinal: Sodium Chloride, or "Aquarium Salt"
Non-medicinal: Heat
Prevention
There are many common ways to prevent Ich (and other parasites or pathogens) from reaching your tank. While Ich may be present in some aquariums, and is easily transferred, Dr. Peter Burgess claims that not all tanks have Ich all the time. With this in mind, it is important to reduce the risk of tank infection, and to help keep your fish strong. Here are some steps one can take to reduce the risk:
Research
Wikipedia - http://en.wikipedia....ius_multifiliis
La Crosse Fish Health Center - http://www.fws.gov/m...Center/Ich.html
[Thread] Piranha Keepers - http://piranhakeeper...44-adding-salt/
Fish Channel - http://www.fishchann...es/pdfs/Ich.pdf
Reefkeeping Magazine - http://reefkeeping.c...08/sp/index.php
University of Perdue - http://www.extension...a/AS/AS-459.pdf
Cichlid-Forum - http://www.cichlid-f...rticles/ich.php
References
Andrews, C., Exell, A. & Carrington, N. (2010). The Manual of Fish Health. ON: Firefly Books Ltd.
Monks, N. Ph.D. (2012). Freshwater Ich: Diagnosis and treatment of Freshwater Ich. Retrieved from:
http://www.fishchann...itions/ich.aspx
United States Fish And WildLife Service. (2009). Ich. Retrieved from:
Wikipedia. (2012). Ichthyophitirius multifilis. Retrieved from:
http://en.wikipedia....ius_multifiliis
Wittig, S. (2012). Understanding and Treating Ich or White Spot. Retrieved from:
http://www.cichlid-f...rticles/ich.php
(Ichthyophthirius multifilis)
Photo Credit: Thomas Kaczmarczyk
Introduction
Freshwater Ich, or simply Ich from this point on in this article, is a ciliate protozoan parasite that is clearly visable to the naked eye. This parasite is very common in all freshwater tanks, as is the saltwater version (Crytocaryon irritans) in that respective environment.
Cause
Ich is most common in tanks which are unstable in some way, or in new specimens which have just gone through a stressful event like shipping or changing tanks. The actual presence of nitrogen and ammonia in themselves do not cause Ich, however, the presence of these in the aquarium lessens the ability of the fish to fight of protozoan outbreaks such as Ich. Abiotic factors such as temperature change and predator-prey interactions or fighting are also cited as stresses which make fish much more susceptible to the disease (Wikipedia, 2012).
*In the context of Piranha keeping, please not that last sentence. Adding feeder fish, which are constantly being chased and stressed, creates ideal conditions for parasites to take hold and reproduce. Even though a healthy Piranha will not succumb to these parasites, they will proliferate under these conditions, and the rotting organic compounds left in the water can causes stress to the Piranha. Always thoroughly clean up your tank after feeding live, and only feed live when necessary.*
Symptoms
Unless you have time, and a powerful microscope, only the whitish nodules on the fishes body will be visible. This, however, is only one part of the Ich life cycle, and this stage is indeed untreatable.
Some common symptoms fish with Ich tend to exhibit are:
- Rapid breathing.
- Scratching on objects, such as wood, decorations, plants, rocks and substrate.
- Loss of appetite, consequentially loss of weight.
- Hiding or separating self from other fish or school.
Photo Credit: United States Fish and Wildlife Service, La Crosse Fish Health Center (2007).
Treatment
General: Treatment of Ich is not an overly difficult process, but one should study each of the methods listed and choose which one of these best suits the aquarium based on the species, the seriousness of the outbreak and the materials on hand.
Many of the medications listed are harsh, and some may use up oxygen in the tank. It is highly recommended to keep a very close watch on water parameters during treatment, and to overaerate the tank being treated. Remove activated carbon when using chemical intervention.
The below dosages are based are the raw medication. Always check the label on the bottle first to guarantee proper dosage.
Below is a format outline guide for the medications list.
Medicinal: Name
- Dosage
- Duration/Frequency
- Comments
Medicinal: Copper
- 0.15-0.3mg/L
- Continuous bath for up to 4 weeks. Monitor with test kit.
- No apparent effect on Nitrogen cycle in FW; effects SW cycle. Harmful to invertebrae and scaless fish. May be noticeably more toxic in fish from softwater than hardwater.
- 0.1-0.2mg/L (Quick bath - 1-2mg/L)
- Continuous bath for several days; may need repeat doses. (Quick bath - One hour, may need repeating)
- May effect freshwater nitrifying bacteria. Closely watch parameters during treatment and be prepared for mini-cycles. Do not overdose. No data for Marine systems. Scaleless fish, such as catfish do not handle this medication well. Only handle stock solutions, never the powder form, as it is highly dangerous when inhaled or ingested.
Medicinal: Malachite Green and Formalin
- 0.1mg/L MG with 25mg/L FN
- Continuous bath for several days; may need repeat doses.
- May effect freshwater nitrifying bacteria. Closely watch parameters during treatment and be prepared for mini-cycles. Do not overdose. Most common combination of medications available in commercial products for the aquarium. Formalin removes oxygen from the water.
Medicinal: Sodium Chloride, or "Aquarium Salt"
- 2-3 table spoons per 5 gallons (Wittig, 2012)
- Continuous bath for about 10 days. Do not remove salt for at least 3 days after the visible parasites are gone. (Wittig, 2012)
- Use in conjunction with a raised heat regiment (see below: Non-medicinal). Overdosing can cause interruptions in the nitrogen cycle. Higher concentrations can be used for Live bearers (especially Mollies), African Cichlids and other hard water fish. Extreme care should be used when adding salt to tanks with softwater fish such as Discus, Catfish, Neons, and other Amazonian Tetras. In such cases, be prepared to do large water changes if an emergency arises. Gradual raising of specific gravity, using a hydrometer, is recommended. Plants may be effected by long term levels of salt in the aquarium water. Planted tanks are best treated using a gradual temperature raising regiment.
Non-medicinal: Heat
- Wittig (2012), in the article "Understanding and treating Aquarium White Spot", claims that temperatures above 75dF in freshwater aquariums will speed up the lifecycle of Ich parasites in freshwater tanks. Wittig (2012) goes on to say that the Ich parasite cannot reproduce above temperatures of 85dF, and that if this level is maintained for several days (rising gradually, 1-2 degrees per hour) that the Ich will be exterminated without need of salt or medications. When using heat as a treatment, be sure that your water is highly oxygenated, and more oxygen is used and needed at higher temperatures.
Prevention
There are many common ways to prevent Ich (and other parasites or pathogens) from reaching your tank. While Ich may be present in some aquariums, and is easily transferred, Dr. Peter Burgess claims that not all tanks have Ich all the time. With this in mind, it is important to reduce the risk of tank infection, and to help keep your fish strong. Here are some steps one can take to reduce the risk:
- Never reuse a net that has been in a tank infected with Ich until the net has been sterilized or dried. Freshwater Ich cannot survive in waters with salt (due to osmotic pressure) and will die if dried out (Neale Monks, Ph.D)
- Feed high quality food and keep aquarium parameters safe and stable (helps the immune system).
- Do not allow "travelling bag water" to enter your systems.
- Never buy a fish that shows any of the symptoms or a fish that is housed in a system connected to an Ich infested tank.
- Dipping your plants in a salt bath (not the roots, only leaves) sterilizes most of the plant, longer quarantine is recommended if possible.
Research
Wikipedia - http://en.wikipedia....ius_multifiliis
La Crosse Fish Health Center - http://www.fws.gov/m...Center/Ich.html
[Thread] Piranha Keepers - http://piranhakeeper...44-adding-salt/
Fish Channel - http://www.fishchann...es/pdfs/Ich.pdf
Reefkeeping Magazine - http://reefkeeping.c...08/sp/index.php
University of Perdue - http://www.extension...a/AS/AS-459.pdf
Cichlid-Forum - http://www.cichlid-f...rticles/ich.php
References
Andrews, C., Exell, A. & Carrington, N. (2010). The Manual of Fish Health. ON: Firefly Books Ltd.
Monks, N. Ph.D. (2012). Freshwater Ich: Diagnosis and treatment of Freshwater Ich. Retrieved from:
http://www.fishchann...itions/ich.aspx
United States Fish And WildLife Service. (2009). Ich. Retrieved from:
Wikipedia. (2012). Ichthyophitirius multifilis. Retrieved from:
http://en.wikipedia....ius_multifiliis
Wittig, S. (2012). Understanding and Treating Ich or White Spot. Retrieved from:
http://www.cichlid-f...rticles/ich.php
Thursday, 24 May 2012
Hole In The Head Disease
Hole In The Head Disease
Photo Credit: Annonymous, via Wikipedia
Introduction
Effects many fish from marine and freshwater environments, however, most common in South American and Central American cichlids. Tangs (saltwater) and Koi also seem to have a high rate of occurance.
Cause
Unknown. Many publications, both online and in books, list flagellate protozoans Hexamita and Spironuncleus as being sometimes present. Other possible causes include: Inadequate nutrition, bacterial infections, poor water conditions1.
"Nitrates have been linked in some studies to the development of HITH where a fish is kept for long periods of time in water with levels exceeding 40 ppm." (Danga, 2009)
"A link has been found between the development of HITH and a lack of calcium, phosphorous, and vitamins C & D. Many of the common fish foods sold in the hobby today are enriched with vitamins to make them more balanced, though supplemental vitamins can be added to them as well. Know the diet of your fish and be consistent, and varied. As a side note for carnivorous and semi-carnivorous fish such as Oscars, red devils, and Jaguars, feeder fish should never be chosen as a primary food source because they have virtually no nutritional value." (Danga, 2009)
Many sources have named "boring diet syndrome", where the owner feeds only 1 kind of pellet or flake to their fish for yearsm and the fish develops a nutrition deficiency in response. To help combat this, add new pellets, including veggie and different protein and lipid combinations to their diets, along with the occasional vitamin supplement.
Symptoms
Easily recognized by scabby indented wounds in the head area (see below). May develop along the lateral line as well, which is known as Lateral Line Erosion. (note: HLLE and Hole in the Head are considered the same disease by some, however, I have chosen to keep them separate as there seems to be varied opinions on this).
Photo Credit: Gtownguy487, via ReefCentral.com
Treatment
Medicinal: Metronidazole (internal), Quinine Sulfate (external)
Non-medicinal: Water changes (20-50% every 3 days), Vitamin C and D additives to food, remove carbon from filters.
Research
Oscar Fish Lover - http://www.oscarfish...es/hith-disease
World Cichlids Online - http://www.worldcich...s/Adamhith.html
[Thread] Fish Forums.com - http://www.fishforum...-hole-head.html
Cichlid Forum.net - http://www.cichlid-f...pironucleus.php
Reefkeeping Magazine - http://reefkeeping.c...06/sp/index.php
[Thread] Reef Central - http://www.reefcentr...d.php?t=1226661
Fish Farmacy - http://www.fishyfarm...s/hexamita.html
References
Andrews, C., Exell, A. & Carrington, N. (2010). The Manual of Fish Health. ON: Firefly Books Ltd.
Danga, Adam. (2007). Hole In The Head Disease. Retrieved from:
http://www.worldcich...s/Adamhith.html
Photo Credit: Annonymous, via Wikipedia
Introduction
Effects many fish from marine and freshwater environments, however, most common in South American and Central American cichlids. Tangs (saltwater) and Koi also seem to have a high rate of occurance.
Cause
Unknown. Many publications, both online and in books, list flagellate protozoans Hexamita and Spironuncleus as being sometimes present. Other possible causes include: Inadequate nutrition, bacterial infections, poor water conditions1.
"Nitrates have been linked in some studies to the development of HITH where a fish is kept for long periods of time in water with levels exceeding 40 ppm." (Danga, 2009)
"A link has been found between the development of HITH and a lack of calcium, phosphorous, and vitamins C & D. Many of the common fish foods sold in the hobby today are enriched with vitamins to make them more balanced, though supplemental vitamins can be added to them as well. Know the diet of your fish and be consistent, and varied. As a side note for carnivorous and semi-carnivorous fish such as Oscars, red devils, and Jaguars, feeder fish should never be chosen as a primary food source because they have virtually no nutritional value." (Danga, 2009)
Many sources have named "boring diet syndrome", where the owner feeds only 1 kind of pellet or flake to their fish for yearsm and the fish develops a nutrition deficiency in response. To help combat this, add new pellets, including veggie and different protein and lipid combinations to their diets, along with the occasional vitamin supplement.
Symptoms
Easily recognized by scabby indented wounds in the head area (see below). May develop along the lateral line as well, which is known as Lateral Line Erosion. (note: HLLE and Hole in the Head are considered the same disease by some, however, I have chosen to keep them separate as there seems to be varied opinions on this).
Photo Credit: Gtownguy487, via ReefCentral.com
Treatment
Medicinal: Metronidazole (internal), Quinine Sulfate (external)
Non-medicinal: Water changes (20-50% every 3 days), Vitamin C and D additives to food, remove carbon from filters.
Research
Oscar Fish Lover - http://www.oscarfish...es/hith-disease
World Cichlids Online - http://www.worldcich...s/Adamhith.html
[Thread] Fish Forums.com - http://www.fishforum...-hole-head.html
Cichlid Forum.net - http://www.cichlid-f...pironucleus.php
Reefkeeping Magazine - http://reefkeeping.c...06/sp/index.php
[Thread] Reef Central - http://www.reefcentr...d.php?t=1226661
Fish Farmacy - http://www.fishyfarm...s/hexamita.html
References
Andrews, C., Exell, A. & Carrington, N. (2010). The Manual of Fish Health. ON: Firefly Books Ltd.
Danga, Adam. (2007). Hole In The Head Disease. Retrieved from:
http://www.worldcich...s/Adamhith.html
Saturday, 12 May 2012
Beginner's Guide to Bacteria in the Aquarium
This is my third article in a series known as "Good To Know" (abbr. GTK), where I will research and attempt to clarify some common mistakes, myths and fish hobby anecdotes for those who are new, and for the vets who have always wondered what information is truly correct and reliable.
The main theme of this article is to help both new and seasoned aquarist understand the bacteria in their tanks. A large amount of misinformation currently circulates the “non-fish junky” level of aquarist population, leading to poor maintenance, understanding and tank husbandry. Dr. Tim Hovanec, a microbiologist and fish hobbyist, is currently the leading mind in this field and thus, will be considered the primary source for information regarding bacteria in aquariums. Dr. Hovanec is best known in the community as Dr. Tim, and will thus be referred to as so through this article.
Beginner’s Guide to Bacteria in the Aquarium
Ammonia molecule - NH3
Photo Credit: PondPlace.com
There is a difference between Nitrifying bacteria, and Sludge Degrading bacteria in aquariums. Many hobbyists will mistakenly confuse the two, especially in times when cloudy water is an issue. Often, hobbyist will be told that the bloom is actually Nitrifying bacteria which is exploding in number due to a waste issue in the tank. This is only partly true; the bacteria you are seeing is exploding in population due to excess waste, but this bacteria is a different type of bacteria and is sometimes referred to as “bad” bacteria because it can out compete Nitrifying bacteria1.
Not all “Bacteria in a Bottle” products are made the same. When Dr. Tim began researching his PhD dissertation, he made some pretty important discoveries regarding bacteria in aquariums. Dr. Tim, in an interview with Mr. Saltwater Tank entitled “Bacteria in a Bottle: Snake Oil or Worth Trusting”2, commented on how he came to understand why many of these products were failing: “All the nitrifiers had bacteria that came from waste water treatment, they didn’t have aquarium bacteria, they’re the wrong ones. They [customers] would add the bottle and think ‘oh, they’re all dead’. No, they’re the wrong bacteria. They are all nitrifiers, but certain nitrifiers live in high ammonia and high nitrite concentrations like a wastewater treatment plant. We don’t have those concentrations [in aquariums]. We have very low concentrations. That’s a different species of ammonia oxidizer and a different species of nitrite oxidiers”. Dr. Tim explains he was looking for the old-school bacteria (Nitrosomas europea And Nitrobacter sp.) but found none or very inconsequential amounts, and ended up concluding that it was Nitrosomas marina which oxidized ammonia and Nitrospira sp and Nitrosococcus sp. which converts Nitrite to Nitrate in a healthy aquarium. Dr. Tim’s bacteria, which have gained a good reputation online, can be ordered online at: http://store.drtimsaquatics.com/ or can be found at other hobby related retailers.
Tetra SafeStart is the only product, other than Dr. Tim's One and Only Live Bacteria, known to carry the proper cycling bacteria. Most other products carry the water treatment plant bacteria which is useless in low concentration environments like and aquarium.
Photo Credit: AquariumWiki.com
Sludge degrading bacteria are not, in most cases, beneficial to aquariums. Sludge degrading bacteria have a limited role in a healthy aquarium. While these bacteria do eat organic compounds (such as fish mulm), they should be used in conjunction with a bottle bacteria product (see below) or water changes as these bacteria only break down waste into ammonia. Test your tank when using these products to ensure that your tank can handle the excess ammonia and convert it quickly.
Sludge degrading products also have an added benefit whereby they out compete “bad” bacteria by cultivating a much less harmful species. This is called Competitive Exclusion, which is defined by AquariumWiki3, “By adding known harmless waste eating bacteria in large numbers the added bacteria out competes any existing bad bacteria for the nutrients in the tank and therefore is a safe and effective way to starve off infectious bacteria. In the medical industry this technique is called 'bacterial interference' and is used to displace pathogens by using harmless bacteria.” These types of products are usually referred to as “Zymes” such as Stress Zyme by API, yet some Waste reduction products also have this added effect.
Never overdose these products as the new bacteria can starve out your good bacteria through oxygen and nutrient depletion causing a tank crash.
Example of a product which contains sludge degrading heterotrophic bacteria.
Photo Credit: SwellUK.com
Boil your dried out filter media to help ward off bad bacteria. Unfortunately for hobbyists, the good nitrifying bacteria cannot survive when dried out. However, the bad heterotrophic bacteria can4. To ensure that the good bacteria has a fighting chance at colonising all your media, boil and bacteria housing media once it has dried out to eliminate the bad bacteria. Also, any media which has been standing in stagnant water for more than approx. 15-20hrs without oxygenation should be boiled in ideal circumstances.
Forget the shrimp rotting method of cycling.
So we’ve been discussing how so called “bad” bacteria can out-compete good bacteria for nutrients, oxygen, and space. By using a piece of shrimp, you are indeed adding a source of ammonia, but first, you are stimulating a massive explosion in growth of organic compound devouring bad bacteria, which will quickly colonise much of your available media and tank before the good bacteria can find a place to begin breaking down the subsequent ammonia spike. Aside from this competition aspect, a full grown shrimp in a sterile tank will likely cause an ammonia spike over 5ppm5, which actually inhibits the growth of good bacteria. Which brings us to our next point…
When cycling a tank, keep ammonia below 5ppm. As we’ve just mentioned, Dr. Tim explains in Episode 22 of Aquariumania on Pet Life Radio5, that having an ammonia reading above 5ppm can actually inhibit the growth of nitrifying bacteria. In extreme cases, Nitrosomas europea bacteria can become the dominant species, which will not be sustainable in a low concentration system like an aquarium. Thus, the cycle will be prolonged as some high range ammonia oxidizers come and go and the real aquarium bacteria takes hold. If your ammonia level reaches over 5ppm, do water changes to correct this problem.
Environmental conditions can effect the quality of bottled bacteria. Dr. Tim states on his website6 that, “Environmental conditions can cause bad batches. The first condition is being exposed to temperatures outside the range they can survive. If the liquid in the bottle freezes the nitrifying bacteria are killed. It don’t matter the brand – freezing kills the nitrifying bacteria. High temperatures also can kill or damage nitrifying bacteria. If the bottle is exposed to 110°F for a day or so the bacteria can be killed. Prolonged exposure to temperatures over 95°F drastically reduces the shelf life of nitrifying bacteria.” Dr. Tim goes on to recommend checking the best before date and also explains that refrigerating the bacteria can help keep the bacteria fresher and more viable longer.
This concludes the beginner portion of the bacterial article. For those wanting to dig deeper into the subject, I will be posting a new article which discusses the more advanced topics such as Autotroph vs Heterotroph, Probiotics, Vodka dosing, Denitrificaton, Building a denytrifier, Nitrosomas Europea vs Nitrosomas marina and Faculative vs Obliogated Hetertrophs.
For more information on some of the products mentioned, an article explaining the use of common aquarium products is also in the making.
APPENDIX
The main theme of this article is to help both new and seasoned aquarist understand the bacteria in their tanks. A large amount of misinformation currently circulates the “non-fish junky” level of aquarist population, leading to poor maintenance, understanding and tank husbandry. Dr. Tim Hovanec, a microbiologist and fish hobbyist, is currently the leading mind in this field and thus, will be considered the primary source for information regarding bacteria in aquariums. Dr. Hovanec is best known in the community as Dr. Tim, and will thus be referred to as so through this article.
Beginner’s Guide to Bacteria in the Aquarium
Ammonia molecule - NH3
Photo Credit: PondPlace.com
There is a difference between Nitrifying bacteria, and Sludge Degrading bacteria in aquariums. Many hobbyists will mistakenly confuse the two, especially in times when cloudy water is an issue. Often, hobbyist will be told that the bloom is actually Nitrifying bacteria which is exploding in number due to a waste issue in the tank. This is only partly true; the bacteria you are seeing is exploding in population due to excess waste, but this bacteria is a different type of bacteria and is sometimes referred to as “bad” bacteria because it can out compete Nitrifying bacteria1.
Not all “Bacteria in a Bottle” products are made the same. When Dr. Tim began researching his PhD dissertation, he made some pretty important discoveries regarding bacteria in aquariums. Dr. Tim, in an interview with Mr. Saltwater Tank entitled “Bacteria in a Bottle: Snake Oil or Worth Trusting”2, commented on how he came to understand why many of these products were failing: “All the nitrifiers had bacteria that came from waste water treatment, they didn’t have aquarium bacteria, they’re the wrong ones. They [customers] would add the bottle and think ‘oh, they’re all dead’. No, they’re the wrong bacteria. They are all nitrifiers, but certain nitrifiers live in high ammonia and high nitrite concentrations like a wastewater treatment plant. We don’t have those concentrations [in aquariums]. We have very low concentrations. That’s a different species of ammonia oxidizer and a different species of nitrite oxidiers”. Dr. Tim explains he was looking for the old-school bacteria (Nitrosomas europea And Nitrobacter sp.) but found none or very inconsequential amounts, and ended up concluding that it was Nitrosomas marina which oxidized ammonia and Nitrospira sp and Nitrosococcus sp. which converts Nitrite to Nitrate in a healthy aquarium. Dr. Tim’s bacteria, which have gained a good reputation online, can be ordered online at: http://store.drtimsaquatics.com/ or can be found at other hobby related retailers.
Tetra SafeStart is the only product, other than Dr. Tim's One and Only Live Bacteria, known to carry the proper cycling bacteria. Most other products carry the water treatment plant bacteria which is useless in low concentration environments like and aquarium.
Photo Credit: AquariumWiki.com
Sludge degrading bacteria are not, in most cases, beneficial to aquariums. Sludge degrading bacteria have a limited role in a healthy aquarium. While these bacteria do eat organic compounds (such as fish mulm), they should be used in conjunction with a bottle bacteria product (see below) or water changes as these bacteria only break down waste into ammonia. Test your tank when using these products to ensure that your tank can handle the excess ammonia and convert it quickly.
Sludge degrading products also have an added benefit whereby they out compete “bad” bacteria by cultivating a much less harmful species. This is called Competitive Exclusion, which is defined by AquariumWiki3, “By adding known harmless waste eating bacteria in large numbers the added bacteria out competes any existing bad bacteria for the nutrients in the tank and therefore is a safe and effective way to starve off infectious bacteria. In the medical industry this technique is called 'bacterial interference' and is used to displace pathogens by using harmless bacteria.” These types of products are usually referred to as “Zymes” such as Stress Zyme by API, yet some Waste reduction products also have this added effect.
Never overdose these products as the new bacteria can starve out your good bacteria through oxygen and nutrient depletion causing a tank crash.
Example of a product which contains sludge degrading heterotrophic bacteria.
Photo Credit: SwellUK.com
Boil your dried out filter media to help ward off bad bacteria. Unfortunately for hobbyists, the good nitrifying bacteria cannot survive when dried out. However, the bad heterotrophic bacteria can4. To ensure that the good bacteria has a fighting chance at colonising all your media, boil and bacteria housing media once it has dried out to eliminate the bad bacteria. Also, any media which has been standing in stagnant water for more than approx. 15-20hrs without oxygenation should be boiled in ideal circumstances.
Forget the shrimp rotting method of cycling.
So we’ve been discussing how so called “bad” bacteria can out-compete good bacteria for nutrients, oxygen, and space. By using a piece of shrimp, you are indeed adding a source of ammonia, but first, you are stimulating a massive explosion in growth of organic compound devouring bad bacteria, which will quickly colonise much of your available media and tank before the good bacteria can find a place to begin breaking down the subsequent ammonia spike. Aside from this competition aspect, a full grown shrimp in a sterile tank will likely cause an ammonia spike over 5ppm5, which actually inhibits the growth of good bacteria. Which brings us to our next point…
When cycling a tank, keep ammonia below 5ppm. As we’ve just mentioned, Dr. Tim explains in Episode 22 of Aquariumania on Pet Life Radio5, that having an ammonia reading above 5ppm can actually inhibit the growth of nitrifying bacteria. In extreme cases, Nitrosomas europea bacteria can become the dominant species, which will not be sustainable in a low concentration system like an aquarium. Thus, the cycle will be prolonged as some high range ammonia oxidizers come and go and the real aquarium bacteria takes hold. If your ammonia level reaches over 5ppm, do water changes to correct this problem.
Environmental conditions can effect the quality of bottled bacteria. Dr. Tim states on his website6 that, “Environmental conditions can cause bad batches. The first condition is being exposed to temperatures outside the range they can survive. If the liquid in the bottle freezes the nitrifying bacteria are killed. It don’t matter the brand – freezing kills the nitrifying bacteria. High temperatures also can kill or damage nitrifying bacteria. If the bottle is exposed to 110°F for a day or so the bacteria can be killed. Prolonged exposure to temperatures over 95°F drastically reduces the shelf life of nitrifying bacteria.” Dr. Tim goes on to recommend checking the best before date and also explains that refrigerating the bacteria can help keep the bacteria fresher and more viable longer.
Mr. Saltwater Tank's interview with Dr. Tim.
This concludes the beginner portion of the bacterial article. For those wanting to dig deeper into the subject, I will be posting a new article which discusses the more advanced topics such as Autotroph vs Heterotroph, Probiotics, Vodka dosing, Denitrificaton, Building a denytrifier, Nitrosomas Europea vs Nitrosomas marina and Faculative vs Obliogated Hetertrophs.
For more information on some of the products mentioned, an article explaining the use of common aquarium products is also in the making.
APPENDIX
5- Pet Life Radio - Aquariumania - Episode 22 - The Good, the Bad and the Not-so-Ugly Truths about Aquarium Bacteria
SOURCES
AquariumWiki.com
(http://theaquariumwi...-Safestart1.jpg)
AquariumWiki.com – Bacteria
(http://theaquariumwiki.com/Bacteria)
AquariumWiki.com – Competetive Exclusion
(http://theaquariumwi...itive_Exclusion)
DrTimsAquatics.com – Bacteria Mixtures
(http://www.drtimsaqu...s-work-provided)
Kmuda. Oscarfish.com - Autotrophic Nitrifying Bacteria and Their Practical Application in a Freshwater Aquarium
(http://www.oscarfish...-manifesto.html)
Kmuda. Oscarfish.com - Heterotrophic Bacteria and Their Practical Application in a Freshwater Aquarium
(http://www.oscarfish...c-bacteria.html)
MrSaltwaterTank.com – Bacteria in a Bottle: Snake Oil or Worth Trusting?
(http://www.mrsaltwat...worth-trusting/)
PondPlace.com
(http://www.pondplace...n%20Diagram.png)
SwellUK.com
(http://www.swelluk.c...ste-control.jpg)
AquariumWiki.com
(http://theaquariumwi...-Safestart1.jpg)
AquariumWiki.com – Bacteria
(http://theaquariumwiki.com/Bacteria)
AquariumWiki.com – Competetive Exclusion
(http://theaquariumwi...itive_Exclusion)
DrTimsAquatics.com – Bacteria Mixtures
(http://www.drtimsaqu...s-work-provided)
Kmuda. Oscarfish.com - Autotrophic Nitrifying Bacteria and Their Practical Application in a Freshwater Aquarium
(http://www.oscarfish...-manifesto.html)
Kmuda. Oscarfish.com - Heterotrophic Bacteria and Their Practical Application in a Freshwater Aquarium
(http://www.oscarfish...c-bacteria.html)
MrSaltwaterTank.com – Bacteria in a Bottle: Snake Oil or Worth Trusting?
(http://www.mrsaltwat...worth-trusting/)
PondPlace.com
(http://www.pondplace...n%20Diagram.png)
SwellUK.com
(http://www.swelluk.c...ste-control.jpg)
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